The majority of the true Sonnet nibs dont have grinding marks.Ī detailed comparison of nibs is coming up soon. REAL: A round hard tip material was ground on the top (non-writing side) to shape and a round mark remains (M nib).įAKE: A round ball with no grinding sings is present indicating that this is most probably a steel ball rather that a hard material than needs to be shaped by grinding. PS1> In an earlier version of this post I wrote: Don't hesitate to send me samples to evaluate. Note the difference in the clarity of the feathers and the gap under the clip.Īnother common tell-tell sign of the fakes. Not in the FAKE.įAKE: Note the roughness of the ring and the poor surface quality. In the REAL pen, it is nicely machined with round fillets and clean lines. A more suttle difference is in the metallic part under the jewel. Look for signs of misalignment in the fakes. FAKE on the left - REAL on the RIGHT :)Ĭap jewels. The barrels are difficult to distinguish externally. Bad fit and signs of glue (do you see the two blobs of glue. The fit between the plastic part of the section and the metallic part of the section threads is a major tell-tell. Look also at the machining marks on the face of the section ring in the FAKE (right) The FAKE (right) has filling signs on it and excess plastic from injection molding. The bottom face of the section provides more clues. I received a fake Montblanc pen I had my suspicions looking at the box, the booklet, stamp on the warranty, and features of the pen, so I took everything to an official Montblanc reseller who showed me why this pen was a fake and what made the pens in his showcase the real deal. The REAL (top) is nice and snag.Īt the section ring, the fakes (right) usually have an ugly gap between the section ring and the main part of the section. The FAKE (bottom) has a huge gap between nib and feed (not always) and it has the remains of an injection molding gate at the tip. In each set - the first is the OK one and the second is the fake one.Īnother obvious difference. Similar differences in the other marks on the nib. Note also the pure plating (this was supposed to be a two-tone nib. REAL: Sharp grid with clear shape - indicates good tools with precise tolerance and good wear resistance.įAKE: Rough grid - bad tools (or improperly hardened tools). Marks on the nib (18K 3rd generation nib) The real one has a clear mark of F (REAL) which the FAKE has a mark that looks like a hot iron burn on a cow :) On the feed where the size of the tip is marked. hmm, the opposite lettering is faint and the cut way offset ( FAKE) This should be easy to recognize by everyone. At the top ( REAL) clear lettering and symmetry in the cut. The unmistakable test on a fake 18K marked nib is this one. They are not easy to spot with the naked eye but with a loupe you should be able to tell them apart from the real Sonnets.
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